From Tech Pack to Bulk: How the OEM/ODM Garment Manufacturing Process Works

Most buyers judge a manufacturing partner by the price they quote. A better predictor of how the partnership will go is the process behind the quote: how a design brief becomes a tech pack, how samples are developed and approved, and how bulk production is planned and checked. This article walks through the full OEM/ODM journey we use for wool coats, tailored outerwear and woven garments, so you know what to expect before you send your first inquiry.

OEM and ODM: two different starting points

With OEM (original equipment manufacturing), you bring the design and the tech pack; the factory sources materials, develops samples and produces to your specification. With ODM (original design manufacturing), the factory contributes the design as well: you select from developed styles and adapt them to your brand. In both cases the patterns, samples and branding belong to you. Most established brands work OEM from their own tech packs, while newer labels often start with ODM styles and move to full OEM as their ranges mature.

Step 1: the tech pack and the brief

The tech pack is the most important document in the process. It translates your design into instructions a factory can cost and produce against. A complete pack does not need to be beautiful, but it does need to be precise: ambiguity at this stage is the root cause of most disappointing samples.

• Technical flats with measured specifications for every size
• Fabric composition, weight and finish
• Trims and accessories: buttons, zips, labels and packing
• Construction details: seam types, stitching and finishing
• Grading rules between sizes
• Packaging and labeling requirements

Step 2: fabric sourcing and development

Once the brief is clear, sourcing starts. For wool outerwear this usually means requesting swatches from mills, comparing hand feel, weight and composition, and deciding between double-faced wool, worsted suiting or wool blends. Mill minimums and dye lots at this stage will directly shape your MOQ later, so it is worth flagging your target quantities early.

Step 3: sampling, and why one round is rarely enough

Sampling is where the garment is engineered, and it rarely ends after one round. A typical sequence runs from a first prototype (to validate design and construction), to a fit sample (to check measurements and wear), to a pre-production sample made in bulk fabric (the final approval). For wool outerwear, plan for around two to three weeks per sampling round, and budget for more than one.

• Measurements against the spec sheet, not just the look
• Seam quality and internal finishing
• How the fabric behaves: drape, weight and hand feel after pressing
• Trims: correct buttons, zips and labels, positioned as specified

Step 4: pre-production approval

The pre-production sample, made in the actual bulk fabric with final trims, is the reference the whole production run is judged against. Color approvals, size sets and any last construction changes are locked at this stage. Changes requested after this approval restart the clock, which is why disciplined buyers approve deliberately rather than quickly.

Step 5: bulk production and quality control

Bulk production runs through cutting, sewing, pressing and packing, with inspection at the points where problems are cheapest to fix: fabric before cutting, seams during sewing, and a final random inspection before shipment. When you compare manufacturers, ask where quality is checked, not only whether it is checked: a factory that inspects during sewing finds problems while they are still cheap to solve.

What decides your MOQ

Our standard MOQ is 100 pieces per style and color, which is realistic for wool outerwear because development costs are amortised across the run. What pushes minimums higher is usually upstream: fabric mill minimums, dye lots and styles that need special machinery or handwork. If you need to keep a first order small, fewer colors, stock fabrics and simpler constructions will do more than any negotiation.

If you are planning your next program and want a partner who works this transparently, contact us.